Sunday, 20 April 2014

turtle oreintal dove

Oriental Turtle Dove

Oriental Turtle Dove
Oriental Turtle Dove
Lip Kee Yap
Widespread throughout eastern Europe and Asia and even into harsh mountain habitats, the Oriental turtle dove has distinct scaled plumage and a prominent neck patch that makes identification easy. These large doves are attractive and can be a highly sought after addition to a birder's life list.

Common Name:

Oriental Turtle Dove, Rufous Turtle Dove, Mountain Turtle Dove, Japanese Turtle Dove

Scientific Name:

Streptopelia orientalis

Scientific Family:

Appearance:

  • Bill: Short, straight, dark, curved culmen
  • Size: 12-14 inches long with 23-inch wingspan, short tail, stocky build
  • Colors: Gray, buff, black, brown, rufous, white, pink, blue, red
  • Markings: Genders are similar with a gray head, throat and nape that may show a buff, blue or pinkish wash, especially in good light. A prominent black and gray striped patch is easily visible on the side of the neck. The back is gray-blue with blurry black blotches, and the wings are dark with broad buff or rufous fringes that give the bird and overall scaled appearance. The lower abdomen is lighter and the undertail coverts may be white or gray depending on the subspecies. The tail is dark can may show a blurry whitish-gray tip. The eyes are orange-brown with a large dark pupil and the legs and feet are reddish purple. Juvenile birds look similar to adults but are more gray-brown overall, have finer scaling on the wings and lack the striped neck patch.

Foods:

Seeds, grain, berries (See: Granivorous)

Habitat and Migration:

These large doves prefer open forest habitats with coniferous or mixed coniferous anddeciduous trees, particularly where there are bare branches available for perches and roosting. They are also readily found in open marshes and agricultural areas where grain crops are dominant. The Oriental turtle dove's widespread range covers most of Asia, including Japan, Taiwan, China, India and Sri Lanka as well as into the Himalayan Mountains up to elevations of 4,000-5,000 feet. They are also found in mountainous areas of eastern Europe, but are absent from dense tropical regions.
Birds in the northern parts of this species' range will migrate further south in the autumn and winter, but birds in the southeastern areas of the range generally remain in the same region year-round. These birds are recorded are rare autumn and winter vagrants to northwestern Europe and the United Kingdom as well as occasional sightings in Alaska. Vagrant sightings reported elsewhere are largely believed to be escaped birds.

Vocalizations:

These doves have a hoarse, throaty, growling song that consists of four “coo” syllables with a slight change in tempo that may have one or two syllables shorter or faster than the first longer syllables.

Behavior:

These are relatively shy, quiet birds that are most often found alone, though small flocks can be seen from late summer through the winter. They will perch on bare branches or wires during the day, and may roost in similar areas at night.

Reproduction:

Oriental turtle doves have a courtship display where the male will make gliding flights in view of the female while he fans his tail to show off his markings. After mating, these birds will lay 2-3 eggs per brood (though three eggs is rare) in a shallow, flimsy twig nest built no higher than 25-30 feet above the ground. The eggs are plain, creamy white and slightly oval-shaped. A mated pair will raise 1-2 broods per season and may re-lay eggs if a nest is destroyed.
The incubation period is 15-16 days and both parents share incubation duties. The hatchlingsare altricial and require extensive parental care for an additional 16-18 days until they are ready to leave the nest.

Attracting Oriental Turtle Doves:

In the proper range and habitat, these birds will visit ground feeding areas or large tray feeders where seeds and grain such as millet and cracked corn are available. They will also readily visit bird baths to drink. Adding bird-friendly landscaping and low shrubs can help provide shelter that will make this shy species feel more secure.

Conservation:

The Oriental turtle dove is not considered threatened or endangered in any way, and its extensive range helps protect the species from localized threats. Nevertheless, feral cats can be devastating to these ground-feeding birds, and overuse or improper applications of pesticides on grain crops can poison birds that feed on spilled grain.

SWan hunting


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wild Oriental dove and nature

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Bugdies feed and care


Budgie Care 101
All The Basics Plus More!

Light Green Opaline cock budgerigar
So you are considering getting a budgie and are wondering about budgie care. Well this is the page for you! I believe that the place to start when considering caring for your budgie(or horse or dog or pig…) is to learn a bit about where they come from originally. Their origins will tell you what sort of food they are designed for, what type of habitat they suit and also explain a lot about their behaviour. So, where do they come from and what does that tell us about budgie care?

Budgie Basics

Budgies are parakeets that originated in Australia. Whilst this country has the full range of habitats, from deserts to rain forest to alpine, budgies primarily live in the grassland areas. They are nomadic, moving to new areas in search food and water. This means they can be found in many parts of Australia, from the inland desert areas to some coastal regions.
Wild budgies live in flocks that can vary from a few birds to huge, noisy flocks. When there is plenty of food the wild budgies will breed prolifically, producing three clutches of up to seven or eight chicks, although four is the average. However the outback of Australia can go years without rain and reach temperatures of 49°C (120°F), burning up any food or water. In these times the budgies do not breed, and many die.
Below you will find information on diet, accomodation, toys, companionship, safety and health. If you wish to read a little more about budgerigar parakeets first then simply click here.
Australian outback



Now, how does this information help us plan our budgie care?

Diet

As you now know budgies live in grassland areas. This means that their diet is mostly made up of seeds. They have access to a variety of grasses, including Mitchell grass, spinifex grasses, wild oats, canary grass and many others. These supply the budgie with seeds of varying development from newly formed and unripe, through to fully ripe dry seeds like those we see in pet shops.
They have access to a range of trees that provide them with leaves, buds, fruit and bark to chew on. Budgies are also known to eat the charcoal from burned trees on occasion, which is believed to help in times of
White Millet seed
illness. As far as drinking goes, budgies access water wherever they can find it from natural sources such as ponds and puddles, to man made sources such as cattle troughs. In times of extreme heat large flocks of budgies descend on water sources, sometimes piling upon each other to get to the water. This results in many drowning and the water supply being fouled.
This information can help us with our budgie care, so lets plan a healthy diet for our budgies.

Once you are happy with the main part of the diet you can start to experiment with a few home made treats.

Accommodation

As budgies are nomadic they need to be able to fly a long way in search of food and water. This means they are very active little parrots with energy to burn and curiosity to match!
You should try to supply your budgies with as large a living area as possible. This means the largest suitable cage you can afford, or a flight or aviary.
The cage or aviary should be furnished with safe perches, feed and water bowls and a few carefully selected toys. You can line the bottom of the cage with paper to make cleaning it easier. However be aware that if the budgie has access to the base of the cage it will chew on whatever it finds there. Many cages have a grill to prevent this.

Entertainment

Budgie playground
Budgies are very agile and playful pets and you can easily keep them entertained with a few well-chosen toys. These must be safe for your bird so when selecting them take care. Anything that the budgie can catch a foot, toenail or beak in should be avoided or only used under supervision.
You should also be aware that your budgie will at least taste, and at most try to chew to pieces, anything you give it! So avoid anything coated with potentially poisonous substances. If you don’t think it would be good for a child to chew on, then do not give it to your budgie! 

Companionship

Skyblue Normal and Skyblue Opaline budgies
As budgies live in flocks they have a need for social activities. This means that unless you are home most of the time and are able to give your budgie regular time out of its cage with you, you would be better to get another budgie for companionship (or two or three…it can be hard to stop with just one).
Tame budgies are absolutely delightful to have out of their cage with you. They will climb all over you, chew the page you are writing on, attack the tip of your pen or pencil and generally make it difficult to ignore them! So if you can only have one budgie, make it a tame one so it can avoid a life locked up in a cage without friends. Better still have two or more tame budgies that can come out of their cage and have races around the room, but still keep each other company when they have to go ‘home’.

Safety

It pays to be aware of potential hazards to your curious, agile and intelligent little pets. They will find a toilet to fall into, pot of hot mashed potato to land in (yes, I have had budgie foot prints in my dinner), a previously unnoticed window to fly into and the solitary stray piece of thread in the house to get tangled in!
There are simple ways to avoid some of these events, however at one time or another something is bound to go wrong. So please supervise your budgie whenever it is out of it cage, and double-check anything you put in their cage.
As far as yoru budgie care goes, safety should come first.

Health

The life of a wild budgie is not an easy one. As mentioned above the inland areas of Australia can become incredibly hot and dry, with many birds and animals dying as a result. What this means for us, when considering budgie care, is that pet budgies are very hardy. They can kept in many different environments, from the very hot to outside aviaries where it snows.
However, this is not an excuse for poor budgie care! Making sure your budgie has a good varied diet, access to clean water and plenty of exercise and mental stimulation, is the best way to ensure it stays healthy.
Get used to observing your budgie so that you can tell if it is looking different than usual. This could be a sign that all is not well. In the wild predators would single out the sick budgies, so they will try to look normal for as long as possible. This means that if you budgie looks sick you should act immediately. It pays to find out before hand if there is a vet nearby who is used to dealing with birds in case of an emergency.
The basic signs of a sick budgie can be any of the following:
Looking hunched, with feathers puffed up (not to be confused with a sleeping budgie which will usually have its beak under its wing),
Diarrhoea, a messy backside, or funny coloured droppings (this can be caused by a new food),
A discharge from its nostrils, eyes or beak (not to be confused with regurgitating food, which is part of the breeding process),
Sitting on the bottom of the cage looking unhappy
The basic first aid for a sick budgie is put it somewhere warm and dark so it can rest quietly until you can get it to a vet.
I have been given a guide to a basic first aid kit for budgerigars, written by a very knowledgeable budgie breeder. It was written with budgie breeders in mind so some of it may not be applicable for the pet budgie owner (or should that be pet budgie owned person!). A large part of good budgie care is being ready for any eventuality, so have a read and be prepared.

Edited by Miss.Unknown, DifuWu, Flickety, Christian Dude and 29 others
You've just got your new budgie and are not completely sure of what to do? Follow the easy steps below & you'll surely learn a lot of helpful tips to help you keep a happy, healthy budgie!

Steps

  1. Take Care of a Budgie Step 1.jpg
    1
    Make sure that the Budgie is comfortable, give it some time to get used to its new surroundings - about three or four days at least. Never rush your budgie!! It will adapt on its own. Stay close to the cage and talk to it sweetly and quietly as you wait for it to adjust but do not try to handle it. It will get used to you in a few weeks/days Keep the bird in "Quarantine" for four weeks if you have other budgies.
  2. Take Care of a Budgie Step 2.jpg
  3. Don't handle it too much on its first two/three weeks. Eventually as it becomes used to its new environment, start interacting with it more and more and eventually it will know you are a friend and not a predator. Other wise they may start being a little anxious and afraid. This will cause them not to bond with you. Also, make sure you give it a bath.
  4. Take Care of a Budgie Step 3.jpg
    3
    Make sure you feed your Budgie correctly. Its food mostly consists of seeds and fresh fruits and vegetables. A lot of people will tell you you must provide pellets as the base of the diet but in reality pellets are simply manufactured, unnatural lumps of low quality grains, fruits, vegetables & any other preservatives, colours, or flavours they add to it. Also, remember to never feed your budgie chocolate, caffeine, or alcohol, and make sure it has enough to water to drink. Keep clean and fresh water in its cage at all times, & change it daily to prevent bacteria build-up.
  5. Take Care of a Budgie Step 4.jpg
    4
    When it's bed time, simply throw a light towel or blanket over the cage, so it covers three of the four cage walls. Make sure there is sufficient air ventilation - you don't want to suffocate your new bird! If it is noisy you can do this too, it will calm them down, but it would also be good if you could move the cage if possible. If you believe it might be too dark, you can provide a small night-light in case your budgie gets a fright, this prevents it from flying around the cage blindly in fear & slamming into a cage wall/toy/perch, causing injury. Check the towel to make sure your budgies cannot get their claws caught in the towel.
  6. Take Care of a Budgie Step 5.jpg
    5
    Buy a big cage - as big as you can afford. The cage should be at least 18cm D x 18cm H x 30cm W, at least. Try to buy a cage that is wider than it is tall & one with a square top. The reason for this is because budgies fly horizontally, not vertically like a quail, & fancy-topped cages are simply a waste of space. The budgie must be able to spread its wings & fly - do not crowd the cage with toys, perches or other budgies.
  7. Take Care of a Budgie Step 6.jpg
    6
    Make sure to buy toys & perches of different thicknesses, shapes, & textures.Natural perches are great, especially compared to dowel or plastic perches. Make sure the wood is safe for the bird, such as eucalyptus. Dowel perches or plastic perches can cause foot problems due to the lack of foot exercises. Also try to avoid concrete perches as they are hard on the birds feet, but if you must use them, position them at the lowest point possible.'.
  8. Take Care of a Budgie Step 7.jpg
    7
    Name your Budgie, this will let them get used to the name!
  9. Take Care of a Budgie Step 8.jpg
    8
    Cuttle bone is a good source of natural calcium for budgies. Mineral blocks can also be bought too. Some people may use liquid vitamin & mineral supplements, but it is not essential, & these things will be consumed through the fresh fruits & veggies you give them - so make sure to give them a variety of fruits & veggies!
  10. Take Care of a Budgie Step 9.jpg
    9
    Clean out the Budgies cage at least once a week and fresh water every day.
  11. Take Care of a Budgie Step 10.jpg
    10
    Always treat your budgie with love & kindness. Remember they are very fragile & require you to handle them with care. Keep them away from small children, & always remember to teach people new to birds how to handle & properly play with these delicate little creatures!!
Finches
The true finches are passerine birds in the family Fringillidae. They are predominantly seed-eating songbirds. Most are native to the Northern Hemisphere, but one subfamily is endemic to the Neotropics, one to the Hawaiian Islands, and one subfamily – monotypic at genus level – is found only in the Palaearctic. The scientific name Fringillidae comes from the Latin word fringilla for the Common Chaffinch(Fringilla coelebs) – a member of that last subfamily – which is common in Europe.
Many birds in other families are also commonly called "finches", including somespecies in the very similar-looking waxbills or estrildid finches (family Estrildidae) of the Old World tropics and Australia; several groups of the bunting and American sparrow family (Emberizidae); and Darwin's finches of the Galapagos islands, which provided evidence of natural selection and are now recognized to be peculiartanagers (Thraupidae).[1]